Jacques Selosse Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Initial

The latest release of Selosse's NV Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Initial was disgorged in fall 2019, and it's a blend of the 2013, 2012 and 2011 vintages. Like its V.O. counterpart based on the same vintages, it's a bit tighter knit out of the gates than last year's release, unwinding in the glass with a classy bouquet of citrus zest, crisp yellow apple, English walnuts, candied peel and subtle hints of fino sherry. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and beautifully defined, the Initial is rounder and more demonstrative than the tensile, incisive V.O., but it will really begin to blossom with a year on cork. Sapid and penetrating, it's another brilliant Champagne from Selosse.

- William Keeley